I don't mention the SCP-1 controller that I use that much, although I don't think I would enjoy this half as much without it. It's a fantastic piece of gear, and with all the different settings it allows, it's possible to dial in a car in a style you want. That's pretty special.
I was thinking of including significant controller adjustments in the race notes, especially if it changes performance of a race car. I might as well, especially when it pertains to maximum power and things like that. There will be a time when I get more track, and I'll want to use these races to help me transition more smoothly into a larger setup. It'll be good to know what my settings were.
If someone besides me ever reads this, and you're like me, and you started out with a Carrera kit and eventually got some good cars, I strongly urge you to consider a good controller, even if it's just for home racing. It really has improved enjoyment, not to mention precision and selection.
I really have to do something about Class B, or they are at risk of evaporating. There's clearly a difference in speed between the two classes/brands, and as time goes by, it gets harder and harder to pick up the Class B cars, especially for a ten-minute race. They aren't as fast, and aren't nearly as fun to drive. I've tuned them as best as I can without replacing parts, and priorities with parts purchases are elsewhere.
I'm considering running Class B in the next ten-minute race and setting a minimum lap requirement to qualify for participation in the rest of the season. They have to come within a few laps of the Class A cars under no power limit. If both pass, Class B stays alive. If one passes, it goes into a Provisional Class A, or a Class A*. It will be provisional because it will still have magnets.
The R18 might have a chance, but I don't think the Safety Car does. We'll see.
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